Removing the slate to get access to the lower portion of the roof.
Small outlet hole
Great picture of how most other systems have outlet holes about the size of the downspout. In this case its a copper system and the outlet is soldered so not a big bridge with caulk. However very small opening to clear debris.
The two rows of slate have been removed, the older gutter is cleaned out, and it is time to remove the old hangers and gutters.
The roof is now exposed and work can begin.
With the bare roof exposed, here we also can see where the cutouts for the roof hangers are. You cut down and chisel out enough wood to bury the shaft of the hanger. Doing this prevents putting pressure on the slate and is the way to go.
Notice how the hangers are sitting down into the felt. And this drip edge is perfectly produced. Drops into the gutter and covers the backside. Preventing any wind driven rain to move up on the roof. Textbook!
Large outlet hole
We can compare this hole with the hole that was in the removed gutter. As you see this is substantially larger. Note also how this type of drip edge covers the backside of the gutter perfectly.
Roof hangers in view
Roof hangers are clearly sitting down in the new felt or underlay. The lath strip provides support for the drip edge, so it will not rest on screw heads for instance. The lath also lifts the final row of slate so they don’t droop down. Mimicking another row of slate.
Drip edge closup
The drip edges are very nicely interlocked, there is another image showing how that is done. You cut in the hem or bottom fold. Also notice the gutter connector, perfectly installed with the two inner epdm flanges just visible. Epdm is the type of very sturdy rubber used in Nordic Steel Gutters connectors and end caps.
Making it watertight
Here the installers have begun adding the underlay covering the drip edge. This will of course prevent any rain from coming behind or under the drip edge. Even if rain is blown up under the slate, it will trickle back down on top of the drip edge and into the gutter.
Underlay and outlet closeup
A closeup of the underlay covering the drip edge. And another great look of the large opening down into the downspout. Notice the small drip edge in the gutter leading down into the funnel. This is all you need to do, no caulking.
Drip edge closeup
Great view of the drip edge. Here you can also see how the bottom fold or hem is cut into. This is the correct way to overlap most types of flashing’s. By doing it like this you will avoid staggering and they will connect in the same horizontal line.
New and old gutter
Great comparison of the already exchanged gutter sections and the older remaining.
Ending with a smaller piece
Notice the two hangers. To try and use as much material as possible is always great. Here we are left with a smaller section of gutter, and to make it really stable they have simply put a couple of hangers closer together.
Finished gutter installation
Compare to the previous image. See how this is finished off with the added underlay on top of the drip edge, coming together beautifully. Once the slate is back on, all you can see will be the gutter and the bottom of the drip edge. You will know it has been done right!
Steep roof pitch
You can just see the drip edge coming down into the gutter. This installation had a very small overhang so the offset is used instead of a couple of elbows. The rivet (-s there are three) holds the offset together but does not obstruct water flow.
These black gutters fits perfectly to the color of this slate roof.
Great installation on this house. Steep roof can be challenging, perhaps older fascia or almost lack thereof. Sometimes you must place the hangers on the roof, the added advantage is you get a super strong installation and a very clean look.
Job well done
I want to thank the guys and girls over at Fick Brothers Roofing and Remodeling, for sharing these images with us. Textbook installation and it looks great!